Monday, April 12, 2010

How sharp is too sharp?


When I first bought a smoker I was really impressed with my new purchase. I decided to spend way more for my cooker than the "typical" smoker costs because I believed that I might as well cry once and have the item that I wanted. When I brought it home I put it together and it was a thing of beauty. A big barrel, nice smoke stack and a firebox made me the talk of the town (it’s a small town!).

That first smoker was a Brinkmann Pitmaster, and compared to the ECB (El Cheapo Brinkmann) bullet smoker, this was a Ferrari. However, it didn’t take me long to find out that the thin layer of metal and the small firebox would be a huge disadvantage when trying to smoke meats that take a long time on the heat. After spending some time on BBQ forums I came to realize that what I though was a good smoker was, in fact, a royal piece of crap. Sure, some folks love cooking on these smokers – they love to make modifications and re-engineer the pit. But I’m not that kind of guy. I want a product that does what it’s supposed to do without hassle and frustration.

I suppose that’s just the way things go. We have perceptions of quality that simply don’t hold up to the deep mystery of reality. Lesson learned.

I am in the process of learning that same lesson again, but now it’s with knives and knife sharpening. For the last year or so I have been experimenting with dry stones, Arkansas oil stones, and recently I purchased an Edge Pro sharpening system. In order to learn how to use the stones I have had to learn a lot about knives. Secondary bevels, burrs, acute and obtuse angles, the list goes on. I have also learned a lot about the difference between Japanese knives and the German knives we have come to think of as knives of the highest quality.

My experience with knives is similar to my experience with cookers. The idea of quality is often found in perception based on experience. I perceived that the Brinkmann Pitmaster was of higher quality than the ECB bullet, primarily because of the price difference and the appearance of the cooker itself. It simply looked more like a smoker to me! Indeed, the quality of a Pitmaster is probably higher than the Brinkmann bullet smoker. However, when I was confronted with a community of other BBQ enthusiasts I came to realize that my perceptions of quality were way off the mark in the grander arena of the world of cookers. The same thing is true for knives. Put up against the knives I bought from Sam’s Club (2 for $8) and the Chicago Cutlery that I inherited from my mom, the Wusthofs and Henkels that my wife bought for our home seemed like the highest of quality. Even more impressive, they cost twice as much as the knives I grew up using. Thus, these German knives were the high-water mark for me in terms of cutlery. Then I tried to sharpen them.

I was looking for that scary sharp edge, and I managed to get it after some work. The problem was that I couldn’t keep the edge. I’m not afraid to admit when my ignorance gets the best of me, so I got onto a knife forum and began to ask what I was doing wrong. The answers I got back surprised me, they even offended me a little. The problem was that I was expecting Japanese knife quality from a German knife. The problem is that Japanese steel can be up to 10x stronger than German steel, so a razor edge is difficult to keep on a German knife. To put it in BBQ terms - A Brinkmann won't cook like a Jambo.

After a phone call to master sharpener Dave Martell (Japanese Knife Sharpening) to see what I could do differently he informed me to actually refrain from making the knives razor sharp. His council? Use a courser stone so that the edge can maintain some “teeth”, the knife will cut better, longer if it is not brought to a razor, polished edge.

I am certainly not about to go and dump my German knives in order to get Japanese slicers in order to cut briskets at a BBQ competition. Indeed, there is no need to do that, just like there is no need for us all to sell inferior pits in order to get a Jambo (believe me, I’ve come close)! The secret is to understand the equipment we have and adjust our use of the equipment accordingly.

So, if you are having trouble maintaining a “scary sharp” knife, it may not be your lack of care – it may be the knife itself. If your razor sharp Henkel is having trouble cutting through a bark coated brisket, it may be that you need a different kind of sharpness to achieve the desired results. And if that "scary" sharpness disappears as quickly as it came, there is only the deep mystery of reality to explain that the knife is just too soft to hold that kind of edge.

Here are some videos of Dave at work:

Saturday, March 27, 2010

Some final thoughts on my Waygu cook.

As I reflect on my experiences today I think I should acknowledge that my judgment of CAB vs. Waygu was less about Waygu beef in general and more about the particular brisket I happened to cook. I have been lucky enough to see Waygu briskets cooked by some of the best in the business and I have some idea of what a Waygu brisket ought to look like. Notice in the picture below how marbled the brisket is:


This brisket was unbelievable in every respect. It had a flavor and texture that was beyond belief.

Now look at the marbling in the brisket I cooked:


The fat you do see was resting on top of the silver skin. After I trimmed the square looking piece on the right there was nothing but pure red.

I think that there is certainly an advantage to using premium meats. However, when this amount of money is at stake one negative experience with what may not have been the best product can certainly sour a person's opinion. My estimation is that I need to try again - with another producer - and see if the results are the same. Anyone know where I can get free Waygu briskets?

At the end of the day...

At the end of the day the results of my Waygu vs. CAB were more than conclusive. In the picture below the Waygu is on the right and the CAB is on the left...

CAB on the left, Waygu on the right. These pictures were taken a half hour after slicing - after the taste tests were complete. Hopefully that explains why the slices are a bit ratty looking - this is what was left after the "judging" was complete. The burnt-ends didn't make it to the photo-op :)
Waygu
CAB

I prepared each of the briskets using the exact same methods and products. I injected with Butchers - the rest I'll keep to myself. Both briskets looked good and held moisture well.

Of the five people who judged, two were competitors and certified judges, and one was a hottie who could have married much better than she did! The results were:

3 chose the CAB
2 chose the Waygu after a lot of deliberation (almost came down to a coin toss).

Clearly the issue could have been the cook - but my experience has left me feeling happy with the meat I am able to get at Sam's.

Which one is the Waygu? - update

We are are almost half way through the cook - just prior to putting on the foil. One note - the brisket on the left has the point end closest to the camera. The brisket on the right has the point farthest from the camera. Any guesses which one is the Waygu?



Which one is the Waygu?

This is my third time cooking Waygu briskets. I decided to do a side by side comparison of a Waygu brisket ($4.70 per lb.) and a choice CAB brisket ($1.98 per lb.). Can you tell the difference?

This is the Waygu:

This is the CAB

CAB on the left, Waygu on he right.

I'll post pics of the finished product later this evening - this is going to be a good day for eating at Monty's!

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

BBQ Brewday(s)

Time to Q also means time to brew. I am putting together a bunch of brews for KCBS BBQ Competition teams and if they are going to be ready by summer now is the time to get started.

Why would I brew beer for teams that will crush us on the BBQ circuit? Simple. I plan on delivering the beer at the precise moment each team is deep in preparation. They will feel obligated to let me into their camp and I will use those brief moments to shig mercilessly.

My first beer is brewed for Big T's Q Crew. They started competing the same time I did. The only difference - they managed to win a bunch of Grand Championships last year and ended up the Iowa BBQ Society's 2009 Team of the Year. Where did Holy and Oly's end up in the IBS rankings? Who knows! They don't calculate out places that far down!

Big T's Tongue Twister.

This beer is huge. It has a pound of hops. To put that into perspective here is the amount of hops used in a typical extra pale ale:


Here's a pound of hops - these are the additions I used in the Big T's Tongue Splitter:




The original gravity of this beer ended up at 1090. By the time it ferments it will be around 9% ABV. Needless to say once the Big T's crew lays into this brew they'll be flat on their backs. Then I'll sweep in and swipe their briskets!

Boondoggle Royal Pale Ale

Don and Bob Denner were the winners of the 2009 American Royal Open, thus the name Royal Pale Ale. This beer is a bit more subdued when placed next to the Big T's brew - but it still packs a lot of hops (5 oz):


I plan on delivering this beer right as they are saucing their pork shoulder. If neither of them are looking I may even snatch some of their sauce!

The original gravity on this is 1040 - making it a nice session brew.

Both beers will spend a lot of time in fermenters. I plan on bottling them in about a month in a half. Then they will age in bottles. The Big T's is big enough that it could be stored for several years - it will only get better.

More to come!

Saturday, February 13, 2010

I don't want a holiday in the sun.

It's time for me to spend more time outdoors. I don't plan on doing any camping or fishing anytime soon. I'm thinking of outdoor activities that involve a lot of sitting and watching. So today I went outside and sat and watched my smoker burn through stick after stick of hickory. Here are some pics. Sorry for the dull colors (almost yellowish tint). But what do you expect for nothing?


Thick cut bacon. Dredge it in:
Brown Sugar
Cayenne pepper
Smoke it for 2 hours (250-275*)

Brisket with burnt ends. Maybe someone who knows something about photography can explain why my camera makes this brisket look like it's slathered in mustard (it's not, really!!).

A good day overall. We had ribs as well, but my sons destroyed those slabs - they hit them like rats on a cheeto!

Here's my fist in the face of winter. Listen to this over a nice plate of Q - especially if you are knee deep in snow!